Sunday, July 1, 2007

June 25 - Larvik and Mollen

We all are feeling as if we are holiday … Ragnhild from her teaching, and us from our driving holiday! We slept in late and then enjoyed a morning dip in the ocean before breakfast…what luxury!

We relaxed at the hytte for the morning and enjoyed the warm sunshine. John worked again on photos, while Ragnhild and I read. In the early afternoon, we headed into the city of Larvik, which is south of Sandefjord, and is the home of Ragnhild’s Mom, Randi Naas. Sherrill had met Randi once in St. John’s, but this was a lovely opportunity for John to meet her and for us to get to know her a wee bit more. She is an warm, ‘very’ energetic 79 year old who walks, swims and bikes. Randi lives in a historic part of Larvik that dates from the late 1600’s, near where Colin Archer, the builder of the ship, FRAM, lived. Her flat overlooks the water, and is in a building dating from 1720. The building has sloping eaves with beautiful old exposed wood beams. Randi has a view of the harbour and is enjoying living once again in her home town area. Randi has a real sparkle in her eye and does beautiful handwork, especially crocheting and weaving.

Ragnhild’s Mom had prepared an extra special taste experience for us on her terrace in the sunshine. It was ‘rommegrot‘, a special porridge made from cows milk and sour cream. Traditionally, it was served at haying-time, or the day after mid-summer’s eve. It is eaten with a drizzle of butter, and generous sprinkles of cinnamon and sugar, and is served with flat brod (bread) and a red fruit juice. It is then followed by spekemat or an assortment of salt meat. What a delicious and fun experience and an opportunity to learn about this tradition!

After eating, Randi guided us to an area called Mollen, another rocky headland which was different geologically. It is an area that Ragnhild remembers as a child and is fascinating as it has many mounds of boulders that date from the Bronze and Iron Ages. They are burial mounds and extend along a line called the ‘Ra’. The ‘Ra’ is a wave reworked recessional moraine, now consisting only of large boulders. We then drove to a little village called Nevlunghavn, where a number of Ragnhild’s aunts used to live. These aunts had husbands who were pilots for the ships in the area. It is a lovely little town of mainly white wood sided houses, and narrow winding streets lined with roses. It was fun to hear both Ragnhild and her Mom reminisce about their past times in this place.

Driving back to Larvik, we passed through the town of Stavern. As early as 1391, the Dutch traveled to Stavern because of the good quality oak there. In 1680, the Duke Gyldenlove, Golden Lion, who oversaw this whole area, built a citadel or fortress at this place. Stavern has also been home to land and sea garrison forces from the 1700s until recent times. Many of the buildings that were barracks are painted a distinctive yellow colour and now there is a shade of yellow known as ‘Stavern’ yellow. There was also a pretty little church in the center of the garrison area painted in colours of the yellow and green.

After returning Ragnhild’s Mom to Larvik, we returned to the hytte and a light supper finished by candlelight.

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