We were up at 0600 … another rainy day in Oslo. After a light breakfast, we said our farewells to Ragnhild and Are, then Anders drove us to the train station in Sandvika and saw us onto the ‘airport express‘, the Flytoget. In between the few stops that this train makes, we traveled at speeds up to 180 km/h … wow!
Check-in at the airport was a little slow due to the holiday crowds, but we eventually got settled in to the departure lounge. Our flight to Heathrow was delayed by about an hour, but that was okay because we had a 4 hour gap between flights home, i.e., either wait in Oslo or at Heathrow.
Terminal 3 a Heathrow has not changed. The crowds were large, and the line-ups long. We spent about an hour in a line-up to go through security, then spent the rest of the time ‘people-watching’ until our departure gate was posted. The flight from Heathrow to Calgary was delayed by about half an hour due to stormy weather, but then we were on our way.
The highlight of the trip was being able to see Greenland from coast to coast, plus much of Baffin Island. What a spectacular country to fly over … lots of mountains, fjords, ice and snow!
To help the trip pass by, we watched 3 good films: Music and Lyrics, The Farmer Astronaut and The Freedom Writers. The first film was just fun. The second one focused on making dreams come true. And the last one, it was about a special teacher who inspired minority kids to change their lives from gangs, violence and no hope to one of hope and possibilities. This was a moving film.
And then, we were home, and our Norway trip was over … but not in our minds as our memories will keep us connected to that beautiful country. What a great time we have had! We’ve seen amazing scenery, and experienced incredible hospitality from our Norwegian friends. It’s going to take awhile to settle back into life in Calgary.
Thursday, July 5, 2007
July 3 - Oslo
We awoke again to the sound of rain. It turns out that this is the longest stretch of rain in Oslo, breaking a 100 year record. We had planned to go to the Holmankolen Ski Jump, but decided not to, given the weather. Instead, we got ourselves organized for the trip home, and put together a slide show of about 500 images.
That evening, Anders and Ragnhild had a wonderful dinner, and then their neighbour friends, Torve and Steiner, with their daughter, came over for dessert and coffee. We then gave everyone a photo tour of Norway travels. The frequent comment was that we had seen more of Norway than most Norwegians. Indeed, we did see a lot, and feel very fortunate to have been able to do so with such good weather.
After the company had left, we had one more evening chat with Anders and Ragnhild with a glass of red wine, then bed.
That evening, Anders and Ragnhild had a wonderful dinner, and then their neighbour friends, Torve and Steiner, with their daughter, came over for dessert and coffee. We then gave everyone a photo tour of Norway travels. The frequent comment was that we had seen more of Norway than most Norwegians. Indeed, we did see a lot, and feel very fortunate to have been able to do so with such good weather.
After the company had left, we had one more evening chat with Anders and Ragnhild with a glass of red wine, then bed.
July 2 – Telemark to Oslo
It was good to wake up to the sound of rain on the roof of the hytte and feel so cozy and dry inside. Anders had the fire lit and the coffee on and we enjoyed breakfast as usual. How good that we did our hiking yesterday!
After breakfast, everyone pitched in to prepare for our departure … it didn’t take too long with all hands involved. The final steps were loading the van and then the relocking process using the end of a coat hanger and the broken key … the reverse of how we got in!! Amazingly enough, it all went quickly and smoothly, coat hanger, broken key and all. J
Our first stop on the way back to Oslo was at a very old and unique farm Svalastoga. The house and an additional building have fascinating carved support posts and old millstones decorating the front area. In addition, an uncle of the present owner, was very artistic and years ago, painted the walls inside the house with pictures that were often of biblical themes. It was definitely a one of a kind farm house to see.
Lunch was a delicious omelette at an old travelers’ inn in an area between Hjartdal and Flatdal. This was a place that Anders and Ragnhild remember from earlier times. We were fortunate to be toured through the inn by one of the owners who is a well recognized artist in Norway. There are painting courses offered here now on a regular basis.
On to the Heddal Stave Kirke … the largest stave kirke in Norway. It was very interesting to see … more turrets on the roof line and much more painted inside. The painting dates from the time io the reformation, 1534. It was fun to explore this historical structure with friends.
We drove in and out of rain the rest of the way back to Oslo, but arrived back in Slependen around early evening. Another delicious dinner and then we watched a short DVD about the Orman Lange gas project here in Norway. Both Statoil and Hydro are involved in that with other investors. It is an amazing project. It will supply 20% of the UK’s gas for the next 30-40 years (10-15 TCF).
In the evening, we were treated to some guitar music by Are. We were to bed not too late … not long now until Wednesday morning and our flight back to Canada.
After breakfast, everyone pitched in to prepare for our departure … it didn’t take too long with all hands involved. The final steps were loading the van and then the relocking process using the end of a coat hanger and the broken key … the reverse of how we got in!! Amazingly enough, it all went quickly and smoothly, coat hanger, broken key and all. J
Our first stop on the way back to Oslo was at a very old and unique farm Svalastoga. The house and an additional building have fascinating carved support posts and old millstones decorating the front area. In addition, an uncle of the present owner, was very artistic and years ago, painted the walls inside the house with pictures that were often of biblical themes. It was definitely a one of a kind farm house to see.
Lunch was a delicious omelette at an old travelers’ inn in an area between Hjartdal and Flatdal. This was a place that Anders and Ragnhild remember from earlier times. We were fortunate to be toured through the inn by one of the owners who is a well recognized artist in Norway. There are painting courses offered here now on a regular basis.
On to the Heddal Stave Kirke … the largest stave kirke in Norway. It was very interesting to see … more turrets on the roof line and much more painted inside. The painting dates from the time io the reformation, 1534. It was fun to explore this historical structure with friends.
We drove in and out of rain the rest of the way back to Oslo, but arrived back in Slependen around early evening. Another delicious dinner and then we watched a short DVD about the Orman Lange gas project here in Norway. Both Statoil and Hydro are involved in that with other investors. It is an amazing project. It will supply 20% of the UK’s gas for the next 30-40 years (10-15 TCF).
In the evening, we were treated to some guitar music by Are. We were to bed not too late … not long now until Wednesday morning and our flight back to Canada.
July 1 - Canada Day and Hytte Time
Our ‘Canada Day’ began with two special greetings, one from Kara by phone from the West Coast of Canada and the other from Mari in the Oslo area … both nice surprises.
After a relaxed breakfast and multiple cups of coffee, we prepared for a day hike up the nearby mountain valley and on to the Roulandsfjell plateau. As we left, the weather seemed to be threatening rain, but we escaped it all day. It was a super day, our pace was relaxed and the temperature just right for hiking and the scenery was wonderful all around us. We passed a number of hyttes, some more remote than others, and wandered the trails with the sheep along the way. J We stopped for our lunch by one of the mountain streams and finally reached our goal, a lake up on the plateau. From there, we headed back down again, with one stop for a ‘sheep-nap’ in the sun on a grassy area … a super hike!
Once back at the cabin, it was attending to some of the necessary tasks, including splitting wood for kindling and preparing supper and so on … Fiskebole for dinner tonight and it was wonderful … it hit the spot perfectly. Another evening of some of our Norway photos over coffee and cake … special times with special friends.
After a relaxed breakfast and multiple cups of coffee, we prepared for a day hike up the nearby mountain valley and on to the Roulandsfjell plateau. As we left, the weather seemed to be threatening rain, but we escaped it all day. It was a super day, our pace was relaxed and the temperature just right for hiking and the scenery was wonderful all around us. We passed a number of hyttes, some more remote than others, and wandered the trails with the sheep along the way. J We stopped for our lunch by one of the mountain streams and finally reached our goal, a lake up on the plateau. From there, we headed back down again, with one stop for a ‘sheep-nap’ in the sun on a grassy area … a super hike!
Once back at the cabin, it was attending to some of the necessary tasks, including splitting wood for kindling and preparing supper and so on … Fiskebole for dinner tonight and it was wonderful … it hit the spot perfectly. Another evening of some of our Norway photos over coffee and cake … special times with special friends.
June 30 – Slependen to Telemark
It had been a busy morning already when we got up today. Tonje, the daughter of Ragnhild and Anders, had left early in the morning for Italy with her soccer team for a week long tournament. As well, Ragnhild’s and Anders’ niece, Kristina, and her boyfriend, Martin, were up and getting ready for a mountain biking race in a neighbouring community. It was also raining very hard … muddy trails for sure!
Anders is now officially on holiday, so after everyone headed off in their various directions, we all got ready for our planned visit to the ‘Kullerud Hytte’ in Telemark. We headed out of the city in mixed weather, but as we drove further west, the weather settled a little bit. Anders drove us via Drammen, Hokkstad and then Konsberg, ‘King’s Hill’. The latter community is pretty with its raging rapids. It also had an intersesting history of silver mining. We stopped for lunch along the way by a pretty lake. It was memorable because in that particular location, wet from the rain and no wind, we ate as the gnats ate us! J
Our next stop was at Rjukan, where in 1911, an amazing power generating station was built in a very narrow valley with a large waterfall and deep gorge. The long term plan by Norsk Hydro included bringing much industry to this valley, starting first with the production of fertilizer. There were many people employed and living along this valley for many years.
Rjukan has another fascinating and inspiring part of its history in the time of the Second WW. At that time, the Germans occupied all of Norway and took over this power facility and began to make heavy water to ship back to Germany for their nuclear research. The allies trained many Norwegians who were working in the resistance and they eventually went back to the Rjukan area secretly. These men worked in extreme conditions to sabotage, first the power plant and ultimately the transportation system for the heavy water to prevent it being taken to Germany. Unfortunately, there ended up being a sacrifice of some of the local life in the sinking of a ferry so this history is very much honoured today. On the lighter side, we got to watch some bungee jumpers dropping off the edge of the suspension bridge that crosses the gorge to the old power plant.
From Rjukan, we headed past some popular downhill ski areas over to the Totak Lake area and the community of Vaa. All along, we were amazed to see each hillside farm with the same type of old wooden buildings as we had seen in the Folk Museum in Oslo at the beginning of our trip. They have a special beauty with their colour, carvings and designs.
Vaa is where the ‘Kullerud Hytte’ is located. To get to it, one goes up a steep zigzagging road through a mountainside farm overlooking the beautiful, steep sided Totak Lake. We had a fun-filled time right from the beginning as our door key broke off as we tried to open up!! To make a long story short, the lock-picking team of Anders/John were amazing. We were soon settled inside with a fire in the stove, feeling cozy and warm and very pleased with ourselves.
This hytte experience was equally as special as the Sandefjord one. The main part of this hytte is over 200 years old so it is made of wonderful log beams and walls. The doors into the sleeping rooms are typically small so we were warned to duck our heads when entering (some were more successful than others!). And the view from the front porch and the windows…it was awesome!
Ragnhild set to creating a delicious meal complete with wine and pears with vanilla sauce and shaved chocolate for dessert … pretty impressive for a hytte! Our evening walk after supper was to a wonderful lookout overlooking the lake near a neighbouring hytte where Anders once stayed as a young boy. It was fun to hear about some of his memories.
We actually looked at some of our Norway pictures before heading to bed and a good night’s sleep. What a privilege to be here with these good friends.
Anders is now officially on holiday, so after everyone headed off in their various directions, we all got ready for our planned visit to the ‘Kullerud Hytte’ in Telemark. We headed out of the city in mixed weather, but as we drove further west, the weather settled a little bit. Anders drove us via Drammen, Hokkstad and then Konsberg, ‘King’s Hill’. The latter community is pretty with its raging rapids. It also had an intersesting history of silver mining. We stopped for lunch along the way by a pretty lake. It was memorable because in that particular location, wet from the rain and no wind, we ate as the gnats ate us! J
Our next stop was at Rjukan, where in 1911, an amazing power generating station was built in a very narrow valley with a large waterfall and deep gorge. The long term plan by Norsk Hydro included bringing much industry to this valley, starting first with the production of fertilizer. There were many people employed and living along this valley for many years.
Rjukan has another fascinating and inspiring part of its history in the time of the Second WW. At that time, the Germans occupied all of Norway and took over this power facility and began to make heavy water to ship back to Germany for their nuclear research. The allies trained many Norwegians who were working in the resistance and they eventually went back to the Rjukan area secretly. These men worked in extreme conditions to sabotage, first the power plant and ultimately the transportation system for the heavy water to prevent it being taken to Germany. Unfortunately, there ended up being a sacrifice of some of the local life in the sinking of a ferry so this history is very much honoured today. On the lighter side, we got to watch some bungee jumpers dropping off the edge of the suspension bridge that crosses the gorge to the old power plant.
From Rjukan, we headed past some popular downhill ski areas over to the Totak Lake area and the community of Vaa. All along, we were amazed to see each hillside farm with the same type of old wooden buildings as we had seen in the Folk Museum in Oslo at the beginning of our trip. They have a special beauty with their colour, carvings and designs.
Vaa is where the ‘Kullerud Hytte’ is located. To get to it, one goes up a steep zigzagging road through a mountainside farm overlooking the beautiful, steep sided Totak Lake. We had a fun-filled time right from the beginning as our door key broke off as we tried to open up!! To make a long story short, the lock-picking team of Anders/John were amazing. We were soon settled inside with a fire in the stove, feeling cozy and warm and very pleased with ourselves.
This hytte experience was equally as special as the Sandefjord one. The main part of this hytte is over 200 years old so it is made of wonderful log beams and walls. The doors into the sleeping rooms are typically small so we were warned to duck our heads when entering (some were more successful than others!). And the view from the front porch and the windows…it was awesome!
Ragnhild set to creating a delicious meal complete with wine and pears with vanilla sauce and shaved chocolate for dessert … pretty impressive for a hytte! Our evening walk after supper was to a wonderful lookout overlooking the lake near a neighbouring hytte where Anders once stayed as a young boy. It was fun to hear about some of his memories.
We actually looked at some of our Norway pictures before heading to bed and a good night’s sleep. What a privilege to be here with these good friends.
June 29 – Slependen
A quiet morning once again at Ragnhild’s and Anders’ cozy home. Our main outing today will be to spend the evening with a friend and former colleague of John’s from St. John‘s, Mari Skaug, at her home just outside of Oslo in Kolbotn.
Ragnhild took us to Sandvika in the early afternoon for a short walk along the riverside, past the performing arts centre and to the shopping areas. After an ‘all-important’ is, or ice cream, she left us to enjoy the area for a while before hopping a train to Kolbotn. Once to Kolbotn, Mari picked us up.
It was interesting to see Mari’s lovely home. It was once two living areas, but she with her woodworking and decorating talents, has fixed it up beautifully. It is in a pretty part of the town, near to the train and shops with lots of trees and gardens to enjoy. Mari had a lovely dinner for us complete with a feast of local strawberries! We were honoured to meet Hannibal, her 70 year old European turtle, as well. We didn’t realize that turtles could live so long. Mari expects that he could well live to be 120 years old! He is really quite amazing, moves more quickly than you might expect and is very stong. Mari has had him for 45 years.
After dinner we made our way back to the local train station with Mari only to find that the train we had planned on taking was not running in the summer months … just when we thought we were understanding the Oslo area train system! We took a taxi instead to central Oslo station and then caught the regular train to Slependen where John and I walked home in the gentle rain to Ragnhild’s and Anders’.
Ragnhild took us to Sandvika in the early afternoon for a short walk along the riverside, past the performing arts centre and to the shopping areas. After an ‘all-important’ is, or ice cream, she left us to enjoy the area for a while before hopping a train to Kolbotn. Once to Kolbotn, Mari picked us up.
It was interesting to see Mari’s lovely home. It was once two living areas, but she with her woodworking and decorating talents, has fixed it up beautifully. It is in a pretty part of the town, near to the train and shops with lots of trees and gardens to enjoy. Mari had a lovely dinner for us complete with a feast of local strawberries! We were honoured to meet Hannibal, her 70 year old European turtle, as well. We didn’t realize that turtles could live so long. Mari expects that he could well live to be 120 years old! He is really quite amazing, moves more quickly than you might expect and is very stong. Mari has had him for 45 years.
After dinner we made our way back to the local train station with Mari only to find that the train we had planned on taking was not running in the summer months … just when we thought we were understanding the Oslo area train system! We took a taxi instead to central Oslo station and then caught the regular train to Slependen where John and I walked home in the gentle rain to Ragnhild’s and Anders’.
Sunday, July 1, 2007
June 28 - Oslo and Solvang Kolonihage
This is a catching up day here in Slependen. John is working hard to organize the photos so that we can show some to folks here before we head back. As always seems to be the case…it hasn’t been simple! He is still at it.
Meanwhile, Ragnhild took Sherrill to meet a friend and colleague from her school, Ragnhild Jorstad. This Ragnhild lives in the summer in a fascinating part of Oslo called Solvang Kolonihage, roughly translated Solvang Garden Colony. It is an area of plots of land with tiny houses or hyttes on them. In the 1930s, Oslo decided that there were a lot of people who were living in tiny dark flats in the centre of the city and who were unable to afford anything more. The city fathers decided to build these tiny cottages on lots that were big enough for a garden and made them available at an affordable price. For many people at this time, living in these hyttes was a highlight as it was the only time that they had a yard to play in and a house of their own with space to grow vegetables. These small cottages remain today, largely unchanged, by law. They are still very inexpensive as they have not been allowed to inflate in price. The cottages in this area can only be lived in from about April to October or November. They are very popular though and sometimes one has to be on a list for ten years or more to buy one. Apparently, this sort of development happened in other Scandinavian countries around this time as well.
Ragnhild’s friend welcomed Sherrill warmly, and we three had a wonderful chat about all sorts of things over coffee and cakes. Once again, I have been very touched by the warm welcome John and I have received from Ragnhild’s and Anders’ friends. This part of our holiday has been particularly enriching and we only hope that we have been able to give back to them a little bit.
Tonight, it was our turn to return some hospitality to Anders and Ragnhild. We had an enjoyable dinner out at the Fjord Hotel near the head of Oslofjorden, and home and to bed early.
Meanwhile, Ragnhild took Sherrill to meet a friend and colleague from her school, Ragnhild Jorstad. This Ragnhild lives in the summer in a fascinating part of Oslo called Solvang Kolonihage, roughly translated Solvang Garden Colony. It is an area of plots of land with tiny houses or hyttes on them. In the 1930s, Oslo decided that there were a lot of people who were living in tiny dark flats in the centre of the city and who were unable to afford anything more. The city fathers decided to build these tiny cottages on lots that were big enough for a garden and made them available at an affordable price. For many people at this time, living in these hyttes was a highlight as it was the only time that they had a yard to play in and a house of their own with space to grow vegetables. These small cottages remain today, largely unchanged, by law. They are still very inexpensive as they have not been allowed to inflate in price. The cottages in this area can only be lived in from about April to October or November. They are very popular though and sometimes one has to be on a list for ten years or more to buy one. Apparently, this sort of development happened in other Scandinavian countries around this time as well.
Ragnhild’s friend welcomed Sherrill warmly, and we three had a wonderful chat about all sorts of things over coffee and cakes. Once again, I have been very touched by the warm welcome John and I have received from Ragnhild’s and Anders’ friends. This part of our holiday has been particularly enriching and we only hope that we have been able to give back to them a little bit.
Tonight, it was our turn to return some hospitality to Anders and Ragnhild. We had an enjoyable dinner out at the Fjord Hotel near the head of Oslofjorden, and home and to bed early.
June 27, 2007 Return to Oslo/Slependen
This was our last morning at the sea-side hytte. We slept late again and had our morning swim in the sea. The tide was extra high this day and we wondered if it had to do with the summer solstice.
We had another relaxed day reading, editing photos and getting things ready to leave. Ragnhild and Sherrill also went for a walk to the other side of the cove from where the hytte is situated. It was interesting to see this special spot from a different vantage point. We had an early supper, did some of the loading of the car, and then squeezed in one more dip. The water temperature had risen to almost 19 degrees.
The drive back to the Oslo area took a couple of hours with one necessary stop for ice cream! It was good to arrive back safe and sound, and to see Anders, Are and Tonje again. We had a bite to eat and then early to bed tonight.
It has been a wonderful few days of holiday time with a relaxed pace in the company of good friends, a little exploring, long sleep-ins and good food and drink.
We had another relaxed day reading, editing photos and getting things ready to leave. Ragnhild and Sherrill also went for a walk to the other side of the cove from where the hytte is situated. It was interesting to see this special spot from a different vantage point. We had an early supper, did some of the loading of the car, and then squeezed in one more dip. The water temperature had risen to almost 19 degrees.
The drive back to the Oslo area took a couple of hours with one necessary stop for ice cream! It was good to arrive back safe and sound, and to see Anders, Are and Tonje again. We had a bite to eat and then early to bed tonight.
It has been a wonderful few days of holiday time with a relaxed pace in the company of good friends, a little exploring, long sleep-ins and good food and drink.
June 26 - The Hytte Day
John and I spent most of this day enjoying the hytte. Ragnhild had some errands to run and also wanted to visit an Aunt in a nearby town. When Ragnhild returned from her first run of errands, she did so with fresh strawberries and sweet rolls in hand, so we all enjoyed a second breakfast with coffee and these treats. Despite a little drizzle, there was another opportunity for a swim and then more reading and sorting of photos in the afternoon.
Supper was another taste treat as Ragnhild picked up some fresh mackeral when she was out in the afternoon. Sherrill had an interesting time watching Ragnhild clean and prepare the fish for supper. With the new potatoes and veggies, it was a delicious dinner. We have certainly enjoyed the fish while here in Norway.
In the evening, we were invited to visit Torve and Steiner, the neighbours of Ragnhild and Anders in Oslo. They were staying at a hytte outside Larvik, close to Viksfjord and wanted us to see it. The cabin is situated on top of a granitic rocky hill near the shoreline with a marvellous view out to a lighthouse and rocky islands. It was fascinating to see how the owners of the hytte have built the structure into the curves of the rock. Torve, Steiner and their daughters, Marianne and Ragnhild, gave us coffee and some of those wonderful Norwegian waffles that John and I have come to enjoy so much … along with cheeses, strawberries, ice cream, jams and cream and coffee…there is no doubt that we are being spoiled! We have been welcomed so warmly by these friends and relatives of Ragnhild and Anders.
Back to the hytte and a glass of wine sitting by the fireplace before bed.
Supper was another taste treat as Ragnhild picked up some fresh mackeral when she was out in the afternoon. Sherrill had an interesting time watching Ragnhild clean and prepare the fish for supper. With the new potatoes and veggies, it was a delicious dinner. We have certainly enjoyed the fish while here in Norway.
In the evening, we were invited to visit Torve and Steiner, the neighbours of Ragnhild and Anders in Oslo. They were staying at a hytte outside Larvik, close to Viksfjord and wanted us to see it. The cabin is situated on top of a granitic rocky hill near the shoreline with a marvellous view out to a lighthouse and rocky islands. It was fascinating to see how the owners of the hytte have built the structure into the curves of the rock. Torve, Steiner and their daughters, Marianne and Ragnhild, gave us coffee and some of those wonderful Norwegian waffles that John and I have come to enjoy so much … along with cheeses, strawberries, ice cream, jams and cream and coffee…there is no doubt that we are being spoiled! We have been welcomed so warmly by these friends and relatives of Ragnhild and Anders.
Back to the hytte and a glass of wine sitting by the fireplace before bed.
June 25 - Larvik and Mollen
We all are feeling as if we are holiday … Ragnhild from her teaching, and us from our driving holiday! We slept in late and then enjoyed a morning dip in the ocean before breakfast…what luxury!
We relaxed at the hytte for the morning and enjoyed the warm sunshine. John worked again on photos, while Ragnhild and I read. In the early afternoon, we headed into the city of Larvik, which is south of Sandefjord, and is the home of Ragnhild’s Mom, Randi Naas. Sherrill had met Randi once in St. John’s, but this was a lovely opportunity for John to meet her and for us to get to know her a wee bit more. She is an warm, ‘very’ energetic 79 year old who walks, swims and bikes. Randi lives in a historic part of Larvik that dates from the late 1600’s, near where Colin Archer, the builder of the ship, FRAM, lived. Her flat overlooks the water, and is in a building dating from 1720. The building has sloping eaves with beautiful old exposed wood beams. Randi has a view of the harbour and is enjoying living once again in her home town area. Randi has a real sparkle in her eye and does beautiful handwork, especially crocheting and weaving.
Ragnhild’s Mom had prepared an extra special taste experience for us on her terrace in the sunshine. It was ‘rommegrot‘, a special porridge made from cows milk and sour cream. Traditionally, it was served at haying-time, or the day after mid-summer’s eve. It is eaten with a drizzle of butter, and generous sprinkles of cinnamon and sugar, and is served with flat brod (bread) and a red fruit juice. It is then followed by spekemat or an assortment of salt meat. What a delicious and fun experience and an opportunity to learn about this tradition!
After eating, Randi guided us to an area called Mollen, another rocky headland which was different geologically. It is an area that Ragnhild remembers as a child and is fascinating as it has many mounds of boulders that date from the Bronze and Iron Ages. They are burial mounds and extend along a line called the ‘Ra’. The ‘Ra’ is a wave reworked recessional moraine, now consisting only of large boulders. We then drove to a little village called Nevlunghavn, where a number of Ragnhild’s aunts used to live. These aunts had husbands who were pilots for the ships in the area. It is a lovely little town of mainly white wood sided houses, and narrow winding streets lined with roses. It was fun to hear both Ragnhild and her Mom reminisce about their past times in this place.
Driving back to Larvik, we passed through the town of Stavern. As early as 1391, the Dutch traveled to Stavern because of the good quality oak there. In 1680, the Duke Gyldenlove, Golden Lion, who oversaw this whole area, built a citadel or fortress at this place. Stavern has also been home to land and sea garrison forces from the 1700s until recent times. Many of the buildings that were barracks are painted a distinctive yellow colour and now there is a shade of yellow known as ‘Stavern’ yellow. There was also a pretty little church in the center of the garrison area painted in colours of the yellow and green.
After returning Ragnhild’s Mom to Larvik, we returned to the hytte and a light supper finished by candlelight.
We relaxed at the hytte for the morning and enjoyed the warm sunshine. John worked again on photos, while Ragnhild and I read. In the early afternoon, we headed into the city of Larvik, which is south of Sandefjord, and is the home of Ragnhild’s Mom, Randi Naas. Sherrill had met Randi once in St. John’s, but this was a lovely opportunity for John to meet her and for us to get to know her a wee bit more. She is an warm, ‘very’ energetic 79 year old who walks, swims and bikes. Randi lives in a historic part of Larvik that dates from the late 1600’s, near where Colin Archer, the builder of the ship, FRAM, lived. Her flat overlooks the water, and is in a building dating from 1720. The building has sloping eaves with beautiful old exposed wood beams. Randi has a view of the harbour and is enjoying living once again in her home town area. Randi has a real sparkle in her eye and does beautiful handwork, especially crocheting and weaving.
Ragnhild’s Mom had prepared an extra special taste experience for us on her terrace in the sunshine. It was ‘rommegrot‘, a special porridge made from cows milk and sour cream. Traditionally, it was served at haying-time, or the day after mid-summer’s eve. It is eaten with a drizzle of butter, and generous sprinkles of cinnamon and sugar, and is served with flat brod (bread) and a red fruit juice. It is then followed by spekemat or an assortment of salt meat. What a delicious and fun experience and an opportunity to learn about this tradition!
After eating, Randi guided us to an area called Mollen, another rocky headland which was different geologically. It is an area that Ragnhild remembers as a child and is fascinating as it has many mounds of boulders that date from the Bronze and Iron Ages. They are burial mounds and extend along a line called the ‘Ra’. The ‘Ra’ is a wave reworked recessional moraine, now consisting only of large boulders. We then drove to a little village called Nevlunghavn, where a number of Ragnhild’s aunts used to live. These aunts had husbands who were pilots for the ships in the area. It is a lovely little town of mainly white wood sided houses, and narrow winding streets lined with roses. It was fun to hear both Ragnhild and her Mom reminisce about their past times in this place.
Driving back to Larvik, we passed through the town of Stavern. As early as 1391, the Dutch traveled to Stavern because of the good quality oak there. In 1680, the Duke Gyldenlove, Golden Lion, who oversaw this whole area, built a citadel or fortress at this place. Stavern has also been home to land and sea garrison forces from the 1700s until recent times. Many of the buildings that were barracks are painted a distinctive yellow colour and now there is a shade of yellow known as ‘Stavern’ yellow. There was also a pretty little church in the center of the garrison area painted in colours of the yellow and green.
After returning Ragnhild’s Mom to Larvik, we returned to the hytte and a light supper finished by candlelight.
June 24 – Sandefjord Area
We awoke to a lovely sunny day. The ocean was very calm and our first main activity was a dip by the ‘elders’ in the 18.1C degree water. It was lovely to be able to warm up on the rocks after the plunge! Brunch was enjoyed outside sitting in the sun with lots of good conversation over coffee.
In the early afternoon, we headed back to the Tonsberg area to meet Ragnhild’s brother, Arne, his wife, Wenche, and one of their daughters, Marianne. We had heard a lot about them so it was really good to have a chance to meet them. Wenche guided us on a drive to Verdens Ende, translated the ‘End of the World‘, which is out on one of the islands at the mouth of the Tonsberg Fjorden. It is quite beautiful with islands of granitic rock smoothed by the glaciers and the ocean over the years. Some of the islands are joined by foot bridges. This area is obviously a popular destination on sunny days for the local folk. There is a lot of history here as we have seen elsewhere. There was an old light cairn (an early form of a ‘lighthouse‘) on a height of rock which was neat to see.
Next we stopped at Arne’s and Wenche’s home which is the house where Ragnhild and her brother grew up. It was fun to hear about some of the memories and stories from here. Wenche and Marinanne had prepared a marvellous spread of food…coffee, anise buns with goat cheese, Norwegian waffles with a red currant/banana/sugar spread and a delicious cheese cake. It was lovely.
Anders and Tonje and her friends and Are all headed back to Oslo from Tonsberg. We returned with Ragnhild to the hytte via Sandefjord. We stopped by a very interesting fountain/sculpture near the harbour that was built to celebrate the men on land and sea who made the whaling industry of the past such a success. It is amazing as the whole large sculpture slowly rotates. We thought our eyes were playing tricks on us at first!
And then, a lovely quiet evening at the hytte to end an interesting day.
In the early afternoon, we headed back to the Tonsberg area to meet Ragnhild’s brother, Arne, his wife, Wenche, and one of their daughters, Marianne. We had heard a lot about them so it was really good to have a chance to meet them. Wenche guided us on a drive to Verdens Ende, translated the ‘End of the World‘, which is out on one of the islands at the mouth of the Tonsberg Fjorden. It is quite beautiful with islands of granitic rock smoothed by the glaciers and the ocean over the years. Some of the islands are joined by foot bridges. This area is obviously a popular destination on sunny days for the local folk. There is a lot of history here as we have seen elsewhere. There was an old light cairn (an early form of a ‘lighthouse‘) on a height of rock which was neat to see.
Next we stopped at Arne’s and Wenche’s home which is the house where Ragnhild and her brother grew up. It was fun to hear about some of the memories and stories from here. Wenche and Marinanne had prepared a marvellous spread of food…coffee, anise buns with goat cheese, Norwegian waffles with a red currant/banana/sugar spread and a delicious cheese cake. It was lovely.
Anders and Tonje and her friends and Are all headed back to Oslo from Tonsberg. We returned with Ragnhild to the hytte via Sandefjord. We stopped by a very interesting fountain/sculpture near the harbour that was built to celebrate the men on land and sea who made the whaling industry of the past such a success. It is amazing as the whole large sculpture slowly rotates. We thought our eyes were playing tricks on us at first!
And then, a lovely quiet evening at the hytte to end an interesting day.
June 23 – Mid Summer`s Eve, Sandefjord Hytte
We woke to another day of heavy rain in the Oslo area. Are and Lina headed off to drop Lina at a camp for children from the Oslo area which is located on an island in the Oslo Fjord. Are then continued on to join friends for the weekend. We four ”elders” enjoyed another cup of coffee over breakfast and then we each worked at preparations for our trip to the Naas Hytte.
As we drove from Slependen towards Sandefjord in the rain, it was interesting to see the countryside through which we were travelling. There was a lot of fertile farmland. On the way to the hytte, we stopped at the town of Tonsberg, where Ragnhild grew up. It is on the Oslo Fjorden and has a good harbour and attractive waterfront. It also has a distinctive hill which Ragnhild described as ”a little Signal Hill” (in some ways similar to Signal Hill in St. John‘s), complete with an old stone tower on the top and a row of canons, overlooking the city. There used to be a fortification here many years ago that was built in 1276, and destroyed in 1503. Only remnants of the old walls remain. The present tower was built in 1888. We enjoyed walking around the hill, especially as the rain stopped for us at that point. The afternoon treat was…you guessed it, an ice cream!
The Naas Hytte is located near Sandefjord on Tonsberg Fjorden, an arm of the larger Oslo Fjorden. What a location! The cabin is perched right on the granitic rocks overlooking the fjord. The main part of the hytte is a sitting/dining/cooking area; there are additional sitting/eating areas outdoors. The sleeping accommodations are part of the cabin, but are entered by going outside. This arrangement is nice in that each sleeping area is a little bit separate. Each sleeping area is cosy and comfy. We feel so privileged to be brought to this special family place.
After settling in and relaxing a bit, we feasted on a late dinner of shrimps. We are now much better at peeling them than we were when we first started, but could use a little more training before being called experts! These were served on fresh bread with lettuce, lemon and a sour cream mixture…delicious.
By the time supper was over, we began seeing smoke from some of the bonfires along the shore of the fjord. This is a tradition on mid-summer`s eve which was celebrated on June 23rd in Norway. We walked over to a near-by YMCA camp, which both Ragnhild and Anders had attended this camp as kids, to see the celebrations there. Later we sat outside, enjoyed a glass of wine with our good friends on a beautiful calm evening and watched the light from several fires along the shore.
As we drove from Slependen towards Sandefjord in the rain, it was interesting to see the countryside through which we were travelling. There was a lot of fertile farmland. On the way to the hytte, we stopped at the town of Tonsberg, where Ragnhild grew up. It is on the Oslo Fjorden and has a good harbour and attractive waterfront. It also has a distinctive hill which Ragnhild described as ”a little Signal Hill” (in some ways similar to Signal Hill in St. John‘s), complete with an old stone tower on the top and a row of canons, overlooking the city. There used to be a fortification here many years ago that was built in 1276, and destroyed in 1503. Only remnants of the old walls remain. The present tower was built in 1888. We enjoyed walking around the hill, especially as the rain stopped for us at that point. The afternoon treat was…you guessed it, an ice cream!
The Naas Hytte is located near Sandefjord on Tonsberg Fjorden, an arm of the larger Oslo Fjorden. What a location! The cabin is perched right on the granitic rocks overlooking the fjord. The main part of the hytte is a sitting/dining/cooking area; there are additional sitting/eating areas outdoors. The sleeping accommodations are part of the cabin, but are entered by going outside. This arrangement is nice in that each sleeping area is a little bit separate. Each sleeping area is cosy and comfy. We feel so privileged to be brought to this special family place.
After settling in and relaxing a bit, we feasted on a late dinner of shrimps. We are now much better at peeling them than we were when we first started, but could use a little more training before being called experts! These were served on fresh bread with lettuce, lemon and a sour cream mixture…delicious.
By the time supper was over, we began seeing smoke from some of the bonfires along the shore of the fjord. This is a tradition on mid-summer`s eve which was celebrated on June 23rd in Norway. We walked over to a near-by YMCA camp, which both Ragnhild and Anders had attended this camp as kids, to see the celebrations there. Later we sat outside, enjoyed a glass of wine with our good friends on a beautiful calm evening and watched the light from several fires along the shore.
June 22 – Slependen
Once again, it is a privilege to be waking up in Ragnhild and Ander´s home in Slependen. It is a busy household today, everyone going in different directions. John and I were part of the late shift for breakfast.
This was the day to return our SKODA to Hertz so after doing a couple of errands, we found our way in the rain to Sandvika and dropped it off. Our little car certainly did us well during the past three weeks. All went smoothly with the drop off and we ”confessed our sins” about missing one toll outside of Trondheim.
The rest of the day was spent quietly with John and I making a first pass at choosing some photos that we hope to be able to show folks here before we leave to go back to Canada. Wow, we’ve taken a lot of photos!
It is the end of the school term here today so Ragnhild and Tonje are now on holiday! Tonje has gone ahead, with two friends, to the family ”hytte” near Sandefjord. We will join them there later tomorrow for ”Mid-Summer`s eve”. It was a full table at dinner tonight, Are, son of Ragnhild and Anders and his girlfriend, Lina, from Trondheim (Molde), were here as were Ragnhild’s and Anders’ other daughter, Marit, and her boyfriend, Bjornar. Everyone pitched in making the delicious dinner of salmon, new potatoes, cucumber salad and strawberries and cream.
After dinner, Ragnhild and Anders and John and I took a walk in the rain. We went to an area in the green belt surrounding Oslo to the place where they have often celebrated the 17th of May with good friends. We could imagine the good times that have been had around a fire pit in the meadow over the years. This area is also tracked in the winter time for cross country skiing and is wonderful to have it so close to Slependen.
This was the day to return our SKODA to Hertz so after doing a couple of errands, we found our way in the rain to Sandvika and dropped it off. Our little car certainly did us well during the past three weeks. All went smoothly with the drop off and we ”confessed our sins” about missing one toll outside of Trondheim.
The rest of the day was spent quietly with John and I making a first pass at choosing some photos that we hope to be able to show folks here before we leave to go back to Canada. Wow, we’ve taken a lot of photos!
It is the end of the school term here today so Ragnhild and Tonje are now on holiday! Tonje has gone ahead, with two friends, to the family ”hytte” near Sandefjord. We will join them there later tomorrow for ”Mid-Summer`s eve”. It was a full table at dinner tonight, Are, son of Ragnhild and Anders and his girlfriend, Lina, from Trondheim (Molde), were here as were Ragnhild’s and Anders’ other daughter, Marit, and her boyfriend, Bjornar. Everyone pitched in making the delicious dinner of salmon, new potatoes, cucumber salad and strawberries and cream.
After dinner, Ragnhild and Anders and John and I took a walk in the rain. We went to an area in the green belt surrounding Oslo to the place where they have often celebrated the 17th of May with good friends. We could imagine the good times that have been had around a fire pit in the meadow over the years. This area is also tracked in the winter time for cross country skiing and is wonderful to have it so close to Slependen.
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